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      RECIPE TITLE "TRADITIONAL TOMATO SAUCES" excerpted from The Sauce Bible: Guide to the Saucier's Craft

    Basic Tomato Sauces

    FRENCH STYLE

    1/4 cup olive oil
    1/4 teaspoon black pepper
    1 shallot, minced
    2 pounds (34 cups) ripe tomatoes, peeled, roughly chopped
    1 medium Spanish onion, very finely diced
    3 garlic cloves, pressed
    6 sprigs fresh thyme
    1/2 cup dry white wine
    1 bay leaf
    1/4 teaspoon salt

    • Sauté the onion, shallot, and garlic in the olive oil, over medium heat, covered, for about 10 minutes.

    • Add the remaining ingredients and simmer, uncovered, very slowly, stirring frequently, 30—40 minutes. Remove the thyme and bay leaf, and adjust seasoning.

    This sauce can be puréed in a food processor, if desired.

    Algerian Sauce
    (Sauce Algérienne)

    Tomato sauce garnished with a julienne of green and red bell peppers, sautéed in olive oil.

    CREOLE SAUCE

    1/4 cup olive oil
    1/2 cup Spanish onion, medium dice
    1/2 cup celery, medium dice
    1/4 cup green bell pepper, medium dice
    1/4 cup red bell pepper, medium dice
    4 garlic cloves, minced
    3 cups fresh garden tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped (or the equivalent of canned tomatoes in tomato juice)
    1/4 cup tomato paste
    1 bay leaf
    salt and pepper to taste

    • Sweat the vegetables and garlic in the olive oil, over medium heat, for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, bay leaf, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer for 30 minutes.

    The Creole cooking styles of the Louisiana delta are a unique blend of the French, Spanish, African, Caribbean, and native North American Indian cultures that influenced the cooking of that region. While Creole sauce is generally served with shrimp or crayfish, it represents a style of cooking unique in the world, and better represented by the regional specialties that can be found in New Orleans, among them gumbo and jambalaya. The presence of Creole sauce in any cookbook is more a way of acknowledging the uniqueness of that cuisine.

    NAVARESE SAUCE
    (Sauce Navaraise)

    1/4 cup olive oil
    6 sprigs fresh thyme
    1 shallot, minced
    1 bay leaf
    1 medium Spanish onion, very finely diced
    1 tablespoon basil leaves, minced
    8 garlic cloves, pressed
    1 tablespoon sage leaves,
    1/2 cup dry white wine minced
    1/4 teaspoon salt
    1 tablespoon oregano leaves, minced
    1/4 teaspoon black pepper
    2 pounds (3—4 cups) ripe tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
    1 tablespoon parsley, minced
    3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

    • Sauté the onion, shallot, and garlic in the olive oil, over medium heat, covered, for about 10 minutes.

    • Add the remaining ingredients and simmer, uncovered, very slowly, stirring frequently, 30—40 minutes. Remove the thyme stems and bay leaf. Add the chopped herbs, mount with butter, and adjust seasoning.

    Richelieu Sauce

    Tomato sauce flavored with meat glaze.

    ROOSEVELT SAUCE

    1/4 cup olive oil
    1 medium Spanish onion, very finely diced
    1 shallot, minced
    3 garlic cloves, pressed
    3 sprigs fresh thyme
    1/2 cup dry white wine
    1 bay leaf
    1/4 teaspoon salt
    1/2 cup apple butter
    1/4 teaspoon black pepper
    1/4 cup lemon zest, blanched
    1 1/2 pounds (about 3 cups) ripe tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped

    • Sauté the onion, shallot, and garlic in the olive oil, over medium heat, covered, for about 10 minutes.

    • Add the white wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add the tomatoes, salt and pepper, and herbs, simmer, uncovered, stirring frequently, 30 minutes.

    • Remove the thyme and bay leaf, and purée in a food processor.

    • Return the sauce to the fire. Add the apple butter and lemon zest, and simmer briefly. Adjust seasoning.

    Apple butter is apple sauce slowly cooked down in a heavy-gauge pan (a cast iron skillet is excellent for this) until thick, dark, and sweet. This can be accomplished in the oven, at 350°F, stirring frequently.

    Saint Cloud Sauce

    Basic French tomato sauce, mounted with tarragon butter and garnished with chopped tarragon.

    BASIC ITALIAN TOMATO SAUCE

    1/4 cup olive oil
    3 cups fresh plum tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped (or canned plum tomatoes, packed in juice)
    1 medium Spanish onion, finely diced
    1/4 cup carrot, peeled and grated
    8 garlic cloves, pressed
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    12 basil leaves, minced
    1/2 teaspoon white pepper
    1/4 cup parsley, minced

    • Sauté the onion and carrot in the olive oil until lightly caramelized. Add the garlic and basil, and sauté another 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper, and simmer slowly, for 30—40 minutes.

    • Purée in a food processor. Add the parsley, and adjust seasoning.

    Since sugar is not recommended for use in tomato sauces, the carrot, as well as the caramelizing of the carrot and onion, is included for its sweetness.

    AMATRICIAN SAUCE
    (Salsa Amatricana)

    3 tablespoons olive oil
    3 cups fresh garden tomatoes, peeled and roughly chopped (or canned plum tomatoes, packed in juice)
    1 medium onion, finely diced
    1/2 pound pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
    6 dried hot red chile peppers
    salt and black pepper to taste

    • Sauté the onion and pancetta in the olive oil for 10 minutes. Add the hot peppers, tomatoes, and some salt and pepper. Simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring frequently.

    This dish, which originates from the town of Amatrice, is generally served with bucatini, a long pasta that is hollow in the center.

    BOLOGNESE SAUCE

    1/4 cup olive oil
    1 tablespoon marjoram or oregano leaves, minced
    1/4 pound prosciutto or pancetta, small diced
    1 tablespoon parsley, minced
    1 medium onion, small diced
    1/4 teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg
    1 medium carrot, peeled, small diced
    1/2 teaspoon salt
    1 celery stalk, trimmed, small diced
    1/2 teaspoon black pepper
    1 pound fresh garden tomatoes, peeled and roughly cut (or canned plum tomatoes, packed in juice)
    2 garlic cloves
    6 ounces lean beef, ground
    6 ounces lean boneless pork, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
    1/2 cup dry white wine
    1/2 cup brown stock
    3/4 cup heavy cream

    • Sauté the prosciutto, celery, carrot, and onion in the olive oil for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic, beef, and pork, and continue cooking another 10 minutes. Add the white wine, and simmer until nearly dry.

    • Add the herbs, nutmeg, salt, tomatoes, and stock, and simmer, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes. Add the cream, and adjust the seasoning.

    Marinara SAUCE
    (Salsa Marinara)

    1/4 cup olive oil
    2 pounds fresh garden tomatoes, peeled and puréed (or canned purée)
    6 garlic cloves, minced
    1/2 Italian parsley (flat leaf), roughly chopped
    salt and pepper to taste

    Sauté the garlic and parsley in the olive oil for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and some salt and pepper, and simmer about 20 minutcs, stirring frequently Adjust seasoning.

    Marinara sauce is sometimes considered to be a simple tomato sauce, with seafood added, so named after the fishermen who included mussels, clams, squid, and so on. This is not necessarily the case, and the sauce is also known by the simple recipe here.

    NEAPOLITAN SAUCE
    (Salsa Napoletana)

    1/4 cup olive oil
    1 pound fresh garden tomatoes, peeled and roughly cut (or canned plum tomatoes, packed in juice)
    3 garlic cloves, crushed
    1/2 cup black Calamata olives, pitted and quartered
    5 anchovy fillets, minced
    2 tablespoons capers, drained
    1/2 cup tomato paste
    1/4 teaspoon black pepper

    • Sauté the garlic in the olive oil until it begins to turn brown. Remove and discard.

    • Add the olives, anchovy, and capers, and sauté a few minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, and black pepper, and simmer 20 minutes, stirring frequently.

    Napoletana generally refers to a tomato sauce without meat. There are so many variations that it is difficult to arrive at one recipe that is the Naples style sauce. This recipe is one of numerous varieties.

    PASTA AGLIO E OLIO
    (Pasta with Garlic and Oil)

    2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
    salt and freshly ground pepper
    1 pound spaghetti
    25 sprigs Italian parsley, stems removed and coarsely chopped
    3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

    • Sauté the garlic in the olive oil over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the pepper flakes, salt, and pepper, and cook another 2 minutes.

    • Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, and toss with the sautéed mixture and the parsley.

    Bugialli, in whose book, Bugialli on Pasta, this recipe appears, suggests several variations of this dish. The garlic can be crushed, sautéed in the oil, then discarded. (This is not an uncommon practice, a way of infusing the oil with only the flavor of the garlic.) Other herbs can be included in this dish as well. These include rosemary (fresh or preserved in salt), which is cooked with the garlic, then discarded. Basil is also suggested, though torn basil leaves, sautéed with the garlic, can remain in the final dish. And finally, the author writes, "I cannot state strongly enough that grated cheese is never added to any aglio-olio dish."




     

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