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      RECIPE TITLE "Citrus and Passion Fruit Soufflé" Author: Elements of Taste Copyright © 2001 by Gray Kunz & Peter Kaminsky.

    yields 6 time---difficulty moderate

    This is a prime example of what we call a "Chef's Dessert." Most desserts start with the idea of something sweet and just keep building on sweetness. Thus, soufflés -- which can be wonderful and light -- often are just a mound of overpowering sweetness. Here, the idea that started the dessert was tanginess and then using only enough sugar to balance it. The trial and error that went on between chef and pastry chef required Chris Broberg, the pastry chef at Lespinasse, to run up the three stories to the chef's office about a hundred times before the dessert was just right. But pastry chefs can always use a little exercise to stay trim.

    Fruit
    1 tangerine
    1 lime
    1 lemon
    1 passion fruit
    Approx. 2 cups sugar (don't worry, you bake the filled fruit on top of mounds of sugar, you don't include this all in the recipe)

    Preheat the oven to 475° F. Slice about 1/2 inch from the top of the tangerine, then cut the lemon, lime and passion fruit in half. Scoop out the flesh of each fruit, taking care not to rip the citrus sieve and set the rinds aside. Press the fruit through the sieve, then sweeten the juice to taste (the juice should still be sour but have some sweetness to it).

    Divide the sugar between six forms of a cupcake tin (each cup should be about one quarter full). Place a reserved rind in each sugar-filled cup. Spoon a tablespoon of sweetened citrus juice into each and set aside.

    Soufflé Batter
    4 egg whites
    2 egg yolks
    4 tablespoons sugar

    Put the egg whites and yolks in separate bowls. Put half the sugar in each bowl. Whisk the yolks until the thicken and have a satiny sheen. Whisk or beat the egg whites until they are firm enough to pull up into peaks but not so stiff that they stand up and remain that way. Fold half the egg whites into the yolks. When they are fully combined, fold in the rest. Spoon the soufflé batter into the fruit rinds. Place the soufflés in the lower third of the oven and bake until they rise and brown, 6-7 minutes. Serve immediately.


    HOT! We recommend:

    Elements of Taste Elements of Taste
    Four-star chef Gray Kunz and food writer Peter Kaminsky have teamed up to create a different kind of cookbook-showing how anyone can think like a chef and create four-star meals at home. To capture the ineffable experience of eating good food, and to explain why certain taste combinations work so well together, the author have identified the essential elements of great taste. Each of the 130 recipes builds upon the 15 fundamental taste building blocks and embodies the basic principles of great cuisine. The 14 tastes are divided into 4 categories: tastes that pull out flavor (salty, sweet), tastes that push flavor forward (tangy, spiced aromatic), tastes that punctuate (picante, bitter), and platform tastes (meaty, oceanic). Grasping these food fundamentals will enable readers to think lie chefs and create masterpieces of their own.


     

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